Oppède-le-Vieux, our residency of the past twenty years, is perched on a rocky outcrop in the Luberon region of Provence. It’s known for its medieval architecture, rich history, and lush vegetation. The silence and desolation evoke a sense of timelessness. The name says it all, ‘vieux’ (old in French), and I often pondered what the oldest house in the village might reveal about its storied past. To explore this, we planned a leisurely Sunday walk up the hill via the medieval callade of Chemin de Tombereau, immersing ourselves in the beauty and history that surrounds us in Oppède-le-Vieux.
On our way
At the end of the steep Chemin de Tombereau, the village looms up between the sumptuous vegetation, offering a breathtaking sight. The landscape is partly cultivated with olive groves and vineyards, while other areas remain rough and untouched, showcasing the natural beauty of Provence. Standing opposite the forest behind the village, the houses appear minuscule compared to the towering trees. It is dead quiet, and you get the impression of approaching a ghost village, where time seems to stand still, inviting the imagination to wander through centuries of history.
One already notable structure is the Maison Gabrielli, an impressive ensemble of four houses built around a courtyard during the 13th and 14th centuries. Additional constructions were added in the 16th century, reflecting the architectural evolution of the time. What immediately stands out is the asymmetrical facade division and the elaborate window openings with sculpted frames typical of the Renaissance period. These details not only enhance the aesthetic appeal but also speak to the artisans’ craftsmanship during that era.
The Maison Gabrielli has become a symbol of Oppède-le-Vieux’s past, echoing stories of the families who lived there and their contributions to the village’s culture. Its unique architectural features, along with its historical significance, attract visitors and scholars alike who wish to learn more about the heritage of the area.
Maison Gabrielli: A Historical Landmark
In the writings of Jean-Paul Clébert (1926-2011), resident of Oppède-le-Vieux from 1968 until his death, I could find this piece of information:
Maison Gabrielli’s historical significance extends beyond its physical structure; it embodies the spirit of Oppède-le-Vieux. Within its walls, generations lived, celebrated, and experienced the trials and tribulations of life in a medieval village. Each stone tells a story, and the courtyard once echoed with laughter and conversation, creating a vibrant community atmosphere.
“There were a few wealthy families, notably the Gabrielli, who owned the “castle,” which isn’t a castle but an estate along the ramparts. This family has been around since the Middle Ages. They were officials at the Papal Court in Avignon and had chosen Oppède as their second home. Originally from a village in Tuscany, Gubbio (hence their name Gabrielli of Gubbio), a village that resembles the north face of Oppède. Once settled here, they bought a few houses in the surrounding area …”
Note: At the time Clébert missed the fact that Gubbio is situated in the region of Umbria, not Tuscany. There is indeed a Via Gabrielli in that village referring to the family.
But, that would not be the oldest structure …
The above sketches in my zibaldone show the position of the so-called oldest house in the village and some interesting details. Click to enlarge.
To Oppède-le-Vieux in Spring: A Visual Journey
It is generally assumed that a detached house a little further on was already there in the 11th or 12th century. Roughly the same period, when the well-preserved Notre-Dame d’Alidon church was build, dating back to either the 10th or 11th century.
Specific details about the oldest constructions in Oppède-le-Vieux are limited. At the back of the house you stand in front of the immense wall of the castle. Even higher you can spot the remains of the medieval fortress.
Today, the remnants of the castle stand as a testament to the village’s rich history and its transformation over the centuries. The fortifications and structures invite exploration and reflection, offering a glimpse into the lives of those who once called Oppède-le-Vieux home. Visitors are encouraged to walk the same paths and witness the beauty that has remained despite the passage of time.
In conclusion, exploring the oldest house in Oppède-le-Vieux is more than just a stroll through history; it’s an invitation to connect with the essence of a village that has witnessed centuries of change. The stories embedded in its walls, the stunning landscapes surrounding it, and the vibrant life of the community speak to the heart of what makes Oppède-le-Vieux a unique destination. Visitors leave not just with photographs but with a profound appreciation for the tales of yore and the timeless beauty that continues to captivate.
The rejuvenating ambiance of spring in Oppède-le-Vieux creates a picturesque backdrop for exploration. The blooming flowers, vibrant colors, and pleasant scents fill the air, making each visit a sensory delight. A short video captures these moments, showcasing the allure of the village during this season. As the sun shines and life awakens, it invites all to immerse themselves in the historical and natural beauty that Oppède-le-Vieux offers.
The castle, once owned by the Counts of Toulouse and later the papacy in the 13th century, was abandoned around the end of the 17th century. Over time, inhabitants relocated to the more accessible plains (Les Poulivets or in short Oppède), leading to the village’s gradual desertion. This transition marked a significant shift in the region’s demographics and economy, as the community adapted to changing times and circumstances.
Extra: On the official site of our village Oppède, you can find some of my sketches on location and the story of the hamlet (in French).
To Oppède-le-Vieux in spring, a short video
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